Sometimes the best laid plans go out the window and every step takes you further from your goal instead of towards it. That was me about a month ago, when I not only spent 10 hours and walked over 20 miles while on a 10 mile hike but also didn’t quite make it to my destination. I could make a number of excuses, I had been sick the day before after all, but I have a feeling that I still would have taken the same wrong turns and stubbornly (or optimistically, your call) kept walking despite the little voice in the back of my head telling me to head back and reevaluate the path. Sometimes the journey matters, not the destination.

During a quick trip to Houston back in August, a friend of mine mentioned San Millan, the cradle of the Spanish language. I knew then that I had to make the visit, but, as with all things right before my trip, I tucked the information in a notebook for future reference and moved on. While on the Camino in September, San Millan came up again and I discovered that, apart being where the first Spanish words were documented, there are two old monasteries, now World Heritage sites. As luck would have it, I was an hour away via car (two day’s walking distance on the Camino). Again, I jotted a note and moved on. Weeks passed and I was ready for an outdoor adventure and anxious to explore a new side of Spain. As I went over my notes, I found my scribbles on San Millan and after a little research, discovered that there were daily buses to and from Logroño. I, influenced by my week long trek on the Camino, however, wanted to retake my pilgrimage and decided to walk the 18 km from Najera to San Millan as outlined in my guidebook.

Starting the journey outside of Najera

Vineyards – La Rioja

My experience on the Camino was so positive and I had been able to follow the path with the help of my guidebook, that I was very confident about this trip. I could say that the excitement and novelty of the journey made me a little careless, I scanned my directions and felt certain that, between myself and the two fellow auxiliares joining me, there would be little problem finding the way. I guess you can say that you usually begin a journey going the right way, and then you take that first wrong turn. In my case, I began following the wrong colored signs. I was so caught up in the adventure, the beautiful landscapes and conversation that I failed to realize that the sun was not in the direction I was supposed to be walking. Then, stubbornness kicks in, why do I doubt myself? Once it became obvious we were going the wrong way, we backtracked, but not enough and again, took a wrong turn. I was optimistic about the path and, despite there being no colored markers, kept on; forcing forks in the road to fit the outlined directions in the guidebook like misplaced puzzle pieces. After a few hours of walking, we come across a map on the road and discover our error. We now had a choice, go back and admit defeat or keep on, taking the longer, unforeseen, mysterious way. You can guess what we decided. Take the long way, enjoy the scenery!

While on the scenic route, we had a great time enjoying La Rioja, seeing the various splashes of color along the gently rolling vineyards and eating delicious grapes. Our plan was to spend the midmorning/afternoon walking the 10 mile route, getting to San Millan and exploring the monasteries around 4:00 pm. By 4:00 pm we had stopped for a rest in a village and discovered that we are still 7 km from our destination. Excited to reach our goal, even if it means only seeing the outside of the monasteries, and despite our aching feet, we keep on walking. Yet life has other plans, we take another wrong turn and after taking the scenic route yet again, we manage to get 2 km from our goal, just in time to catch the bus home. It just was not meant to be.

I can be quite stubborn and hate being defeated. So, a week later, alone, but more prepared, I lace up my hiking boots and retake the journey. This time, I know to follow the yellow arrows. I double check my surroundings, confirm with the position of the sun and choose to backtrack sooner rather than later. The journey is still amazing. Fall in La Rioja is lovely as fields of red and yellow vineyards keep me company. I eat a ridiculous amount of ripe, sweet red and white grapes; tasting here and there from as many vineyards as possible. I even manage to find a fig tree and snag a few of the last ripe figs of the season. The path unfolds differently this time; less mysterious but not less inspiring. I must rely on myself, I stop more frequently, remember to breathe in slowly and enjoy the views. Sure, I look back and assure myself of my path, but this time I know I am where I need to be and that I will make it to my goal in due time.

River Cardenas

Follow the yellow arrows.

Last figs of the season.

Olives

I got to see this little guy take his first steps

Sometimes, you know you are on the right path.

Last 800 meters!

After two days, ~ 30 miles and 15 hours, first glimpse of Yuso. I made it!

11th century monastery.

Our Lady of Guadalupe

This impressive pulpit was made from one tree trunk.

Some of these codices were huge!

Suso Monastery, circa 6th century. Believed to be built on the site of a hermitage where Saint Emilian lived.